An Ina Kinda Day

I have four of the Barefoot Contessa cookbooks in my collection and I use them with surprising regularity. If you are new here, I am a vegetarian - something Ina definitely is not. Like not even close. But I love her books and love her recipes. I use many of the dessert ones and also get a lot of mileage out of the soup, salad, and vegetable chapters.The dinner I made last night contained two recipes from her latest book, Back to Basics.


Do you remember the garlic bread from your childhood? The one I remember is from some "Italian" restaurant in the suburb of Seattle where I grew up. My parents are transplanted New Yorkers and I think the hardest part about moving West was the loss of good Italian food and good bagels. (It has gotten better, but we are by no means close to what NY has to offer.) We would go to this restaurant and my brothers and I would chow on garlic bread which consisted of styrofoam-like bread, slathered with butter, and liberally sprinkled with garlic salt. There may have even been some green can Parmesan cheese on there for good measure. Needless to say we loved it, but there is no way I would eat that now.

This is real garlic bread. Ciabatta bread, a heady concoction of lots of garlic, parsley, and fresh oregano sauteed with salt and pepper in a good amount of olive oil, and a very restrained amount of butter - especially for Ina. This is baked in the oven for only 10 minutes - just enough for the all the flavors to mingle and for the bread to get nice and warm - not enough to toughen the bread. In true Ina form, this recipe is found in the Vegetables section of the book!


The other recipe I made yesterday was for this Roasted Tomato Caprese Salad. For me it was one of those - why didn't I think of that?! - moments. Here in Seattle, we are fortunate to have amazing produce. We get incredible spring asparagus and peas, summer berries that people all over the country would pay a fortune for, and wild mushrooms all fall. We do not, however, get good tomatoes. If you grow them yourself, you can get a decent tomato now and then, but I have never experienced the New Jersey tomato. If I did, I think I would cry.

I love tomatoes so I eat them anyway. But Caprese salad never did much for me. Mozzarella doesn't have that much flavor, so if your tomatoes are tasteless, why exactly would you eat it? Enter Ina and her good idea to roast the tomatoes. That way, you can concentrate the flavor and give it a little boost with olive oil, salt, pepper, a little sugar, and a little balsamic vinegar. Eating this last night really was a revelation and a recipe I will make again and again.


Garlic Ciabatta Bread
Adapted from Barefoot Contessa Back to Basics
Serves 8

To make my cooking healthier, I always add a minimal amount of oil when I am sauteing. For this recipe, you will want to add more - perhaps not the full 1/2 cup called for in the recipe, but at least 1/4 cup. You want the garlic and herbs nice and moist so they can be easily spread on the bread.

6 large garlic cloves, roughly chopped
1/4 cup fresh parsley
2 tbsp. fresh oregano leaves
1 tsp. kosher salt
1/2 tsp. freshly ground black pepper
1/2 cup olive oil
1 large ciabatta bread
2 tbsp. unsalted butter, at room temperature

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.

Place the garlic, parsley, oregano, salt, and pepper in the bowl of a food processor fitted with the steel blade and process until finely minced. (DN: A mini food processor is perfect for this if you have one.) Heat the olive oil in a medium saute pan over low heat. Add the garlic and herb mixture and cook for 3 minutes, until the garlic is tender but not browned. Remove from the heat and set aside. (DN: You can leave this for several hours if need be.)

Cut the ciabatta in half horizontally, running a serrated knife parallel to the board. Spoon the garlic mixture onto the bottom half and spread the btuter on the top half and place together.

Bake the bread for 5 minutes, then unwrap and discard the foil. Bake for another 5 minutes. Slice crosswise and serve warm.


Roasted Tomato Caprese Salad
Adapted from Barefoot Contessa Back to Basics
Serves 6

This is essentially a simple salad so the components are very important. If you have access to very fresh mozzarella, now is the time to splurge. If you live in Seattle, DeLaurenti makes their own and it is amazing. Also, use your best olive oil and Balsamic vinegar, even your best sea salt. You will taste the difference.

12 plum tomatoes
1/4 cup quality olive oil, plus more for drizzling
1 1/2 tbsp. balsamic vinegar
2 garlic cloves, minced
2 tsp. sugar
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
16 oz fresh mozzarella
12 basil leaves, julienned or chopped
Sea salt

Preheat oven to 275 degrees.

Arrange the tomatoes on a sheet pan, cut sides up, in a single layer. Drizzle with the olive il and balsamic vinegar. Sprinkle with the garlic, sugar, 1 1/2 tsp. kosher salt, and 1/2 tsp. pepper. Roast for 2 hours until the tomatoes are concentrated and begin to caramelize. Allow the tomatoes to cool to room temperature. (DN: These can be made up to 1 day in advance. Allow to cool and then store in the refrigerator. Allow to come to room temperature before serving.)

Cut the mozzarella into slightly less than 1/2 inch thick. If the slices of mozzarella are larger than the tomatoes, but the mozzarella slices in half. Layer the tomatoes alternately with the mozzarella on a platter and scatter the basil on top. Sprinkly lightly with sea salt and pepper and drizzle lightly with olive oil. Serve at room temperature.

Pulling a Barbara

We had our lovely dinner party last night and I am happy to say that almost everything turned out as I wanted it to. First of all, the company was terrific. It's always so nice to meet new people and have great conversations with them. Their party of eight became a party of six, so we were able to sit down with all of them and really enjoy the conversation and, oh yeah, the food. Course by course, here we go...

The appetizer (Sizzling Halloumi with Fava Beans and Mint) was as simple and delicious as I remember it from last summer. The peas and beans were tossed with a little olive oil, lemon juice and mint, and then sauteed briefly just to lightly cook. The halloumi is just put in a hot pan until it gets a little crust on the outside and starts to soften. Put the two together and yum!

The soup was Summer Borscht and it hit just the right note since it was so hot yesterday. I really believe there is nothing like cold soup on a hot night. The company seemed to agree.

The salad was Wilted Greens with Roasted Mushrooms. This was a bit of a disappointment for me. The idea is that you toss your greens (spinach and escarole) with previously roasted Portabello mushrooms, cherry tomatoes, mint, and good balsamic vinegar. Then you heat up olive oil in a pan and pour it over the salad which should wilt the greens. Should being the operative word here since my greens did not really wilt and the salad wasn't warm like I wanted it to be. If I made it again, I would saute the greens in the olive oil on the stove and, once wilted, mix in with the other ingredients. Bummer.

For the main course, I made Shitake Mushroom and Gruyere Cheese Souffles with a Farro Salad with Zucchini and Pine Nuts on the side. The farro was good (everyone loved the texture) but the souffles were, I must say, delicious. I made similar ones, without the mushrooms, a few months ago and these were much better. The shitake mushrooms had been sauteed in a little butter with lots of thyme and that wonderful herb really came through in the souffles. Plus, this is a rich dish and the mushrooms cut through the richness a little bit - enough that I had no problem slurping down the entire thing.

And the dessert is where I kind of pulled a Barbara. Barbara is my mom's name and she is a very good cook and baker. Whenever she makes something for company - especially if it is a dessert - she will tell you the 45 things that went wrong with it and how it doesn't look at all like it is supposed to and how it probably won't taste good. So yes, on very rare occasions, there is one crumb out of place, but everything she makes is delicious and once she tastes it herself, she will finally let go of the idea that disaster has struck.

I am not quite as bad, but let's just say the apple doesn't fall far from the tree. Because I am not a super artistic person, my desserts don't always look the way I want them to. So I will complain to Randy that my dessert didn't turn out and he will say, "Did it really not turn out, or are you pulling a Barbara?" In which case, I am forced to admit that while yes, there is one crumb out of place... ok fine, it's going to taste great.

This dessert, well, what can I say about Fran Bigelow? Honey, you let me down. Fran is the owner of Fran's Chocolates which is a heavenly store I have been going to since my middle school days. A few years ago, she came out with a cookbook that has some of the most beautiful photographs that I have ever seen of my beloved chocolate. I have made several recipes and marvel at how simple the ingredients, how involved the process, how sublime the results, how worth the cost and effort.

Last night's dessert? Very tasty. Really, how could a tart with a walnut and butter crust (no flour!), a layer of caramel, and a layer of chocolate ganache be anything but delicious? It just didn't come together as it was supposed to. Once assembled, she advises to leave it out at room temperature for up to four days. It was clear that if it was ever going to set up, I was going to have to refrigerate it, which I did figuring I could serve it a room temperature. But that made it so soft that I could barely get the pieces out with out pulling the ganache right off the caramel. I know, the life I lead!! But it is frustrating to have the big ta-da! fall a little flat. Now I don't trust that cookbook which is a bummer because there are lots of other things I want to make from it.

All in all, one disappointing salad, a somewhat mushy dessert, and one burned arm (second-degree from the oven door) were greatly counter-balanced by the other great food, wonderful company and delicious wine. Amy and Mark - can't wait to see you guys again!

Before I give you the recipe for the Halloumi appetizer, let's talk about fava beans. They have kind of an intimidating appearance (what on earth do you do with that giant pod?) but they are easy to use once you know what to do. They are super fresh and in season here in the Pacific NW - you can find them at all the farmer's markets.

In the above photo, the pod on the left is what it will look like whole, the pod next to it is what it will look like once you open it. The first bean is what most will look like - large with kind of a waxy cover. These will need to be peeled so that they look like the second bean -nice and bright green. The last bean is a beautiful small and young bean that does not need to be peeled because it's skin will be nice and soft.

So, first things first. Fava bean pods are tougher than peas, so you will need a paring knife to split it open. Don't cut in too deep or you will cut the beans. Once open, just pull the beans out and discard the pods. Unless you are growing your own fava beans or are picking them yourself on a farm, you will need to remove the skin from most beans. This is because the beans most of us will get are older and tougher, but if you can get young pretty things, well, lucky you! Peeling them can be done by putting them in a pot of boiling water for about one minute. Drain, allow to cool, and then simply squeeze them out of their skin. They do have the annoying habit of sometimes splitting in half when you do this, but don't worry about it. Now your fava beans are ready for use!

Sizzling Halloumi Cheese with Fava Beans and Mint
Serves 6
Adapted from Bon Appetit Magazine

You can find Halloumi cheese at Whole Foods, Metropolitan Market, and even Safeway. Look for it near the feta cheeses. It costs about $8 for a 8 oz. package, so if you see it for more than that, shop somewhere else (I have seen it for as much as $14). This recipe says you can use frozen peas and frozen fava beans. I have never seen the latter so I would imagine that shelled edamame would be a good substitute.

1 1/2 pounds fresh fava beans, shelled
1 1/2 cups shelled English peas
3 tbsp. olive oil
2 tbsp. fresh mint, plus extra for garnish
grated zest of one lemon
2 8oz. packages Halloumi cheese, each sliced lengthwise in to 6 slices
juice of one lemon
1 lemon, cut in to 6 wedges

Blanch and peel fava beans according to above instructions.

Place fava beans, peas, olive oil, 2 tbsp. mint leaves, and lemon peel in a large skillet. Cook over medium heat until warmed through, stirring often, about 3 minutes. Season with salt and pepper and squeeze lemon juice over. Cover until cheese is ready.

Heat large nonstick skillet over medium heat. Add cheese slices and fry until golden, about 2 minutes per side.

Divide vegetable mixture among six plates. Arrange two slices of Halloumi atop vegetables on each plate, and garnish with lemon wedges and a couple of mint leaves. Serve immediately.

(Oh! I almost forgot to mention that I somehow got it into my head that I wanted to serve this wonderful bread from the Fields of Greens cookbook topped with herbed butter, thinly sliced (purple!) radishes, and a sprinkling of sea salt as an hors d'oeuvre. I am not sure where I got this idea but it actually turned out beautifully. Even Randy, who made a face when I described it to him, loved it. So, if you are looking for an easy nibble buy (don't make it like I did) a dark hearty loaf of bread, slice it thinly and spead it with an herb butter which you can buy or make, then top with thinly sliced radishes and a sprinkling of sea salt.)

Disaster, Averted

The cake doesn't look like a disaster, does it? Actually, it wasn't but it was very close.

You always hear that baking and cooking are two totally different things. To people who do neither, that probably doesn't make much sense. Both require time in the kitchen, tools, and usually a heat source of some kind. In the end both produce something to eat - how are they totally different?

To be fair, they aren't totally different. You do, in fact, get to eat the results in both cases. But most people I know cook or bake, not both. Usually, in my circle at least, they cook and don't bake. Why is this?

Maybe it's because cooking, as they say (whoever they are) is an art and baking is a science. Cooking allows you to add ingredients on a whim, taste as you go, and adjust. Baking requires you to follow a recipe to the letter and if you stray, suffer the consequences. You can substitute in cooking. Don't like cilantro? Omit it. The flavor will be different but it will still be good - the dish will work on some level. But omit the baking powder from a recipe and the whole thing will be a disaster.

Or omit the sour cream as I came incredibly close to doing today. I was making this lovely Blueberry Crumb Cake and was, as usual, in a hurry. I am fortunate to have quite a bit of counter space in my kitchen but for some reason, when I bake, I confine myself to a tiny portion of it and stack all kinds of things I don't need so that they are totally in my way. I was trying to get the whole thing done and in the oven before my baby came over to start playing with the oven dial. And so, as I was just about to fold in the blueberries, I spied behind the cutting board and other junk I had stacked, behind all the used measuring cups and spoons (why don't I just put them in the sink?), yes, there it was! The sour cream. I put the bowl back under the mixer, added the sour cream, gave it a spin, and then added the blueberries. Disaster averted.

My mom taught me to always re-read the recipe several times in the course making a dish - especially when you bake. I was reminded of her saying that today. So here is my little tip of the day - always re-read the recipe. It takes 12 seconds and can save your dinner (or dessert).

After that little lesson, I am actually going to include the recipe for something completely different. I would love that the photo was inserted here, but I can't seem to get it go anywhere other than the top. That cute little wedge of pie you see on the dinner plate is a favorite of mine. It is quick, has few ingredients, requires few dishes and no special tools, and plays well with others. And although it is called Feta Ricotta Pie, I have made some substitutions that make it, well, not too fattening. I particularly like it when served with a meal that is heavy on the vegetables. It provides a nice anchor - rich and creamy with no crunch. Tonight I served it with Herb Roasted Onions and Broccolini with a Balsamic Vinaigrette. (I also served a Borscht that I will write about another time...)

Feta and Ricotta Cheese Skillet Pie

Adapted from Vegetarian Suppers from Deborah Madison's Kitchen

Serves 4 generously

Deborah Madison suggests using a 10 inch cast iron skillet or an earthenware baking dish for this pie. I have had great success making it in a Pyrex pie dish. Just rub it with oil or spray with non-stick spray. I use low fat ricotta cheese and 2% milk and less feta cheese than she calls for, but you could go full fat and use more feta, of course. It's very important to use good-quality feta here for that is the taste that really comes through.

1/2 pound good feta cheese

1 pound low fat ricotta cheese

4 eggs

1/4 cup flour

3/4 cup 2% milk

salt and pepper

1 tbsp chopped dill

1. Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. Mix three-quarters of the feta with the ricotta in a medium bowl, without worrying about getting it perfectly smooth - you'll want some chunks. Beat the eggs into the cheese, then add the flour and milk. Season with salt, pepper and dill.

2. Grease a 9 inch pie plate. Pour in the batter and crumble the remaining cheese over top. Bake until golden, 35-40 minutes. Cut in to wedges and serve.

Friday, at last

Ah yes, Friday. Most of us look forward to this day and I am certainly one of those people. This week I have been counting the days more than most because Randy, my husband, is coming home from a business trip to NYC. He works long enough hours that he doesn't see our baby during the week (he comes home after the baby is in bed), but I have come to rely on him putting our 3 1/2 year old to bed each night. By the end of the day, I am toast so to not have to do that one last thing is a real life saver. It has been a long week but the boys have been great and I had a really nice dinner party last night, so all things considered it wasn't a bad week.

Seven of my friends from our preschool co-op came over last night. About half of us are no longer actually in the co-op (we are in that half) but we were lucky enough to have a terrific class and many of the women have stayed friends. We are all in similar places in our lives - young children consuming much of our energy - so everyone really appreciates (and needs!) a night out. It made me laugh that almost everyone got here exactly on time - these women needed a cocktail! It was such a lovely night that we sat outside for the first part of the evening where we drank wine and nibbled on White Bean Spread with Crostini and the Stuffed Dates that I had made at the last minute.

After the last woman arrived and it started to get too chilly to sit outside, we moved in to the dining room for dinner. The thing I love about the menu I served is that everything was room temperature and aside from tossing the salad, everything was made in advance. I have thrown a lot of dinner parties and one of the many things I have learned is that it is no fun to try and actually COOK when your friends are there. Last minute assembly of a dish is fine, but to try and focus and follow a recipe while also worrying whether everyone has wine, carrying on a conversation with three different people, and shooing your toddler away from the oven is, well, no fun. And dinner parties should be fun, even for the host(ess).

And fun, this one was. We lingered at the table for hours and I got to catch up with some people who I deeply care for. Aside from the few moms nights out that we have cobbled together, most of the time I have spent with these women is with children present - and if you have children, you know that a two minute story can take 20-30 minutes to tell in the presence of babies and toddlers. So just to have uninterrupted conversation was nice. My boys behaved themselves beautifully and slept through the whole thing. And the food really was good. The last time I made the Fontina Galette from the Macrina cookbook was for my clients and I didn't taste it - I'm happy to say it's really good. I made a Beet Salad with Green Beans, Ricotta Salata, and Arugula and it made me curse Randy (again!) for not liking beets. It was delicious and I made it up myself. Before I forget when I put in it, here is the recipe.

Beet Salad with Greens and Green Beans and Lemon Honey Vinaigrette
Serves 4

You can use red beets or a combination of red and gold beets (be sure to use some red for the color). If you use a combo, cook them in separate pans so the golden don't get stained by the red.

For the salad:
2-3 large beets
A handful of green beans, ends trimmed and cut in to 2" pieces
A small wedge of ricotta salata (Whole Foods and Metropolitan Market carry this cheese)
About 5 oz of arugula or other salad greens

For the vinaigrette:
1 small shallot, minced
The juice of 1 lemon
1 tsp of honey
5 tbsp of olive oil
Pinch of salt
Freshly ground pepper

For the dressing, combine the shallot, lemon juice and honey together in a jar with a tight-fitting lid. With the lid on, give the ingredients a shake. Pour in the oil, add the salt and pepper and give it a really good shake. Taste and see if it needs more of anything. If lemon is too overpowering, or if the dressing seems too thin, add more olive oil. (The dressing can be made up to week in advance. You can double it and have salad dressing for the week).

To cook the beets, heat the oven to 400 degrees. Put the beets in an oven-proof dish and fill it with about a half inch of water. Cover with foil and bake for about an hour (or more). They are done when you can pierce them easily with a knife. Allow them to cool slightly, then peel off the skins with a paring knife. Cut in to wedges and toss with a few tablespoons of the dressing. (These can be made 2 days in advance and stored, covered, in the fridge).

To cook the string beans, bring a medium size pot of water to boil. Add a good pinch of salt, then the beans. Cook for 3 minutes then drain. Rinse well with very cold water and drain again. (You can shock them - which sets the color and stops them from cooking - in a bowl of ice water, but to me, that's one more dish to wash).

To assemble the salad, right before you are going to serve it, mix the beans in with the beets and allow them to get coated with a little of the beets' dressing. Lay a bed of arugula down on a large plate (or in a salad bowl). Scatter the beans and beets over top and then crumble the ricotta salata over top. It looks best if the crumbles are about the size of chickpeas. Spoon the dressing over the salad and enjoy!